Maison Margiela returns to Paris as Martens focuses solely on the house
Glenn Martens presents Maison Margiela on 29 September in Paris after a Shanghai outing last season, with his attention no longer split after stepping down from Diesel, Vogue and BoF reported. The house is among brands returning to the Fédération SS27 calendar of 68 shows.
Maison Margiela is back on the official Paris runway calendar for spring/summer 2027, with creative director Glenn Martens showing on 29 September after the house presented in Shanghai last season, Vogue reported.
Sole focus after Diesel
Business of Fashion noted that Martens wrapped his tenure at Diesel with a steamy Milan show last week, so his focus will no longer be split between two very different OTB-owned houses. BoF said his nascent Margiela tenure has drawn critical praise and some controversy — citing the four-stitched mouth pieces from spring/summer 2026 — and asked whether freer concentration on one house will let him hit his stride.
Returns on a tighter calendar
Vogue’s cheat sheet listed Margiela among houses returning after a season or more off, alongside Valentino (which showed fall 2026 in Rome), Sacai, Ester Manas, Christopher Esber and Casablanca. The Fédération women’s ready-to-wear calendar runs 28 September–6 October with 68 shows and 34 presentations, fewer than SS26’s 74 shows. Day two also features Dior under Jonathan Anderson and Saint Laurent under Anthony Vaccarello, before Courrèges’ Drew Henry debut on 30 September.
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