Paris Fashion Week day one: Kegels, Matières Fécales and Hodakova take the stage

Emerging names dominated the first day of Paris Fashion Week spring/summer 2027 as megabrands waited in the wings, according to coverage from RUSSH and Business of Fashion.

Julie Kegels opens the calendar

2026 LVMH Prize recipient Julie Kegels opened the calendar with a collection titled “Apple of the Day,” exploring “falling in all its forms,” RUSSH reported, citing her conversation with Vogue. Gravity appeared in sagging jean flies and floral embroidery that seemed pulled downward.

Matières Fécales at Place de la République

Designers Hannah Rose and Steven Raj Bhaskaran presented Matières Fécales’ “Ninety Nine Percent” — an adversarial nod to last season’s “The One Percent” — as the first fashion show hosted in Place de la République, RUSSH said. The front row included Rihanna and Rick Owens; the cast of 99 models was entirely people of colour and again included family and friends. BoF’s Angelo Flaccavento noted crowds pressing against barricades and a pharaonic production, while questioning how derivative some urban-guerrilla references felt.

Hodakova’s aquatic upcycling

At the Swedish Institute garden, Ellen Hodakova Larsson showed Hodakova looks built from discarded materials — fishnets, hawser rope, waxed cloth and sail fabrics — with models wearing painted-on eyes that RUSSH likened to an uncanny “Other Mother” effect. BoF said the outing felt more immediate and assured than past seasons heavy with wearable sculpture.