Saint Laurent's Vaccarello under exit spotlight as Kering restructures

Saint Laurent’s Tuesday evening spring/summer 2027 show has drawn unusual scrutiny amid reports that creative director Anthony Vaccarello could be nearing an exit, Business of Fashion wrote in a Paris Fashion Week briefing.

Rumours meet a hotter ticket

BoF said that amid signs Vaccarello may depart after about a decade at the Paris house, the 29 September show — typically staged at night with dramatic sets — had become an even hotter ticket than usual. Vaccarello has boosted Saint Laurent’s profile with a glamorous take on Parisian style, and BoF wrote that business has roughly tripled since his arrival, though the brand has not been immune to the wider luxury slowdown and is struggling to reignite sales growth.

Kering’s broader reshuffle

The briefing framed attention on Saint Laurent alongside Balenciaga as Kering undergoes a broad restructuring led by CEO Luca de Meo. BoF also flagged Maison Margiela’s 29 September slot — Glenn Martens returning focus solely to the house after stepping down from Diesel — and Courrèges’ Drew Henry debut on 30 September. Vogue’s SS27 cheat sheet separately listed Saint Laurent among the week’s livestreamed evening events on the Fédération calendar running 28 September–6 October.