Rick Owens SS27 pursues “elegant stoicism” with stone-colored column dresses

Rick Owens presented his Spring/Summer 2027 ready-to-wear collection at Paris Fashion Week on Thursday, 1 October, at the Palais de Tokyo, pursuing what he called “elegant stoicism” through regal stone-colored column dresses, WWD reported.

Columns, lace and denim

Models walked a sloping runway over the reflecting pool in stone-toned columns — some rigid and splayed on steel grating, others in gossamer fabrics that caught the wind — sometimes topped with car coats in double duchesse. Owens told WWD backstage the silhouettes echoed dark paintings he sees almost twice a week at the Basilica of Saint Clotilde near his Paris home. One slim gown came in black tulle with a spiky grid surface he named “brutalist lace”; fabric jutted in dramatic points along the collarbone or as geometric bustles on long denim skirts. Later looks grew tougher: sulfur-dyed denim in futuristic tunics and flaring pants, or rugged rompers. Under some dresses, feet were wrapped in thick ropes of crystal — “pretty, sparkly shoes,” he shrugged, as a perverse twist on his usual platform boots.

Experiment and show notes

Owens revisited tensegrity constructions from his men’s show, this time in frothy tulle on elastic cords covering the body like negligees he said he tried on himself. Minus the black contact lenses and fearsome platform Taconaska boots of some past shows, the collection stayed in his dystopian-industrial register while chasing dignity and stoicism.