Hermès SS27: Nadège Vanhée designs for ‘air’ with zips, sheer panels and light leather
On 3 October at the Garde Républicaine in Paris, Nadège Vanhée showed Hermès Spring/Summer 2027 built around air and heat — sheer-panel parkas-turned-dresses with zips to shorten or lengthen looks, perforated suede and open knits, WWD reported. AFP noted Hermès shares are down about 39% year to date despite holding up better than much of luxury.
Nadège Vanhée presented Hermès women’s Spring/Summer 2027 on Saturday, 3 October, in the courtyard of Paris’s Garde Républicaine, translating a year of travel through extreme heat into an “airy” wardrobe of light leather, silk and zippered volume control, WWD and AFP reported.
Air as pragmatism
Vanhée said she wanted to convert the idea of perceptible and imperceptible air into pragmatic silhouettes after feeling heat in Los Angeles, Asia and Europe’s brutal summer. Parkas became airy dresses and skirts with sheer panels; little zips modulated length. Fan-blade-inspired swooshing pleats appeared on a black leather blazer; sporty dresses used thin leather strips on silk mesh; perforated suede and fishing-net-like open knits over statement bras let air through, WWD wrote. Colours included sunflower yellow, chocolate and Hermès orange.
Venue, accessories, business note
AFP said the zip was a leitmotif across skirts, leather jackets and flared trousers at the Republican Guard venue. Accessories included strappy Capri-style sandals, fishnet-detail buckets and stacks of thick leather bracelets — chic but hot in a warm show space, WWD quipped. AFP separately noted Hermès shares plunged as much as 11% on 29 July after half-year results and are down about 39% since the start of the year, while still outperforming weaker peers; chief womenswear designer Vanhée is due to present the house’s first haute couture in January, with Grace Wales Bonner debuting as Hermès menswear artistic director.
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