Ann Demeulemeester SS27: Stefano Gallici brings a Californian desert trip to Paris

Ann Demeulemeester’s spring/summer 2027 show in Paris drew on a solo journey its creative director Stefano Gallici took across the Californian desert last December, according to WWD’s review published on 4 October.

Three colours, many textures

The landscape pushed Gallici to reduce colour to black, white and blue and to play up texture and layering, WWD reported. The opening segment featured minidresses and asymmetric aprons and skirts sprouting tulle, silk crepon, ruched jersey and fringes of knitted straps in white, ivory, chalk and ecru. Rather than sunny, glitzy Los Angeles, the designer evoked its sun-bleached winter decay: faded prints and cutouts on T-shirts, distressed denim, bleached cargo pants, rust stains on workwear and ballet flats, tuxedos turned inside out to show their linings, and aviator-style leather outerwear with a lived-in patina. House favourites returned too, including Gallici’s Napoleon jacket and lingerie and Victorian touches.

Music on the runway

Songs from the trip’s playlist shaped the show: Chelsea Wolfe performed live on the catwalk, while Ethel Cain created a capsule collection sold exclusively at the brand’s newly opened Paris store from Monday. Queens of the Stone Age frontman Josh Homme made a cameo on the runway, WWD noted.