Martine Rose has signed to replace Piccioli at Balenciaga, Puck reports; Kering declines to comment

British designer Martine Rose has signed a deal to become creative director of Balenciaga, replacing Pierpaolo Piccioli, the industry newsletter Puck reported on 23 October. The appointment is not confirmed: a Kering representative declined to comment, Rose did not respond to Puck’s request, and a formal announcement is not expected for weeks.

Piccioli’s exit

A day earlier, Puck’s Lauren Sherman reported that Balenciaga staff had been told Piccioli was leaving after less than two years. The former Valentino designer was praised as a couturier, but, according to Puck, he struggled with menswear, which Demna had turned into the brand’s growth engine.

Who is Martine Rose

Rose spent three years as a menswear adviser at Balenciaga under Demna and is known for street- and club-culture-inspired menswear and collaborations with Nike and Supreme. Puck noted that her own label has been in flux since the collapse of the British incubator Tomorrow, which had taken a 60% stake in the business and was bought out of distress earlier this year.

Kering’s bet

Puck wrote that Kering CEO Luca de Meo wants Balenciaga to be Gen Z’s entry point into the group. The report came as Kering shares tumbled after weak third-quarter results and falling Gucci sales. If confirmed, four of the group’s five major brands would have women as creative directors, Puck noted.