Season review: why BoF's Tim Blanks says independent thinking defined Spring/Summer 2027
In their seasonal wrap-up, Tim Blanks and Imran Amed argued the strongest shows — from Simone Rocha and Erdem to Rick Owens, Prada and Chanel — came from designers acting on conviction rather than consensus.
The Spring/Summer 2027 fashion month is over, and The Business of Fashion’s editor at large Tim Blanks and founder Imran Amed used their seasonal review podcast (9 October) to name its common thread: independence.
Highlights they picked
- London: Simone Rocha and Erdem delivered what Blanks calls career heights; Christopher Kane debuted at Mulberry, bringing the label back to the London schedule.
- Milan: Demna showed his third Gucci collection; Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons built Prada’s show almost entirely around the skirt.
- Paris: Anthony Vaccarello staged his final Saint Laurent show, built around gold (Kering confirmed his exit on 9 October); Matthieu Blazy’s Chanel also featured in the discussion.
The big idea
In an industry dominated by giant groups chasing quarterly targets, the hosts see a renaissance of independent designers and independent thinking. Blanks described fashion at its best as an “individual idiosyncratic statement”, and Amed noted that independent stores worldwide are looking for designers who offer what customers cannot find everywhere.
Our take: after a season of high-profile creative-director debuts at the big houses, the review is a useful reminder that personal conviction still sells.
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